Cumberland Island, Georgia
Let us spend the day running barefoot with the wild horses on untamed beaches, then rest under ancient oaks as they tell the story of times gone by.
If you close your eyes, you can almost imagine what this beautiful island must have looked like before man discovered it. Dream a little longer and you can see the elegant and exclusive parties that were surely hosted by the Carnegie family in their elaborate home over one hundred years ago.
Truly a hidden treasure amongst Georgia’s barrier islands, Cumberland Island - 9,800 acres of history and natural landscape - has been preserved so that today we can walk amongst the oaks, ruins, and sandy beaches, learn about times gone by, and enjoy wild horses that roam the island.
Access to Cumberland Island is available either by ferry or private boat. The Cumberland Island Ferry launches from the beautiful downtown district of St. Mary's, Georgia. Reservations can be made ahead of time via their website. The ferry’s launch and return times vary based on seasons. Dates, time and availability are all on the website mentioned above.
Private boats are easily launched at one of two public boat ramps in St. Mary’s.
Downtown St Mary’s has a public boat ramp but very limited sparking for your vehicle and boat trailer. This is the easiest path to Cumberland and you won’t be navigating the maze of small intracoastal rivers. Also, you can follow the ferry from a safe distance to find your way there.
The North River boat ramp located at the end of Meeting St. East is another option. This ramp boasts ample parking but does require you boating through the intracoastal rivers. A chart plotter is highly recommended to help guide your way there and back.
As of this writing, the only dock on Cumberland Island accessible for private boat docking is at Sea Camp Ranger’s Station located on the western side of the island. This is the same area the ferry will deliver you to to begin your explorations. After securing your vessel properly and walking the dock to the mainland, there will be a collection box for the park fee. Currently, the fee is $10 per person 16 yrs or older. The park rangers do not offer change so either carry exact cash needed for your traveling party or you can write in a valid credit card number on the back of the form.
Now’s the time to decide what you day of exploration will look like. It is impossible to see the whole island in one day. *Side note: you can camp over night to allow more time to explore but reservations must be made ahead of time* Asking for an island map from the park ranger on duty will help you decide which paths to take and which areas you want to explore.
My recent visit consisted of the southern portion of the island since my primary focus was to see and experience Dungeness…. More to come on that. We headed south from the ranger’s station via a small path that led us along the west shore. The size of the oaks and the thickness of the palmettos lend to the natural untouched beauty of the island.
The first clearing you come upon holds an old home that has been converted into a ranger station. It’s still quite beautiful and holds to most of it’s original structure. Along the coast line is the old ice house and a dock that is only used by the rangers. We spotted a wild horse grazing under a large oak, who’s branches touched the ground.
From this clearing, you head east down an old dirt road lined with ancient oaks. This is a great spot for photos and, if your lucky, you may catch a glimpse of a wild horse grazing in the near by pasture. Approximately, a half-mile down this road a sign pointing south indicates the way to Dungeness. As you turn and begin your walk toward the ruins of what was once a great mansion, the large stone entry welcomes you back to an era long gone.
Dungeness was originally the name of a hunting lodge housed on the island and owned by James Oglethorpe. In the late 1700s, a portion of land on the island was awarded to war hero, Nathanael Greene and his wife, Catherine. They began the task of building a large tabby home for their family when he died and left the remaining task to his wife. She, along with the help of her children’s tutor (soon to be step dad), finished the building of the 4 story home which they also named Dungeness.
The home and property eventually came to be owned by an employee of the Greene family, Robert Stafford. Then in the late 1800s, was taken by the Union to be used as a garrison. The Greene-Stafford home was burned down and only the brick chimneys remained. This sad fate is not the ending of the story of Dungeness.
Pittsburg’s Thomas and Lucy Carnegie decided on Cumberland Island as the perfect spot to build their winter home. The finished project was a 59 room Scottish style castle aptly named Dungeness. Mr. Carnegie did not live to see it completed, however, his wife and nine children made it their home. In 1959 and after the death of Mrs. Carnegie, the extravagant castle burned and the remaining ruins are what we see today.
The land still remains in the Carnegie family trust but the care and preservation has been taken over by the National Park Service; thus how we have access to view and appreciate this slice of history.
In the same clearing as the ruins of Dungeness, you will find the remains of other structures used by the Greene and Carnegie families. Continuing along the Dungeness trail (headed east), you will find the Greene-Miller family cemetery, the old restored carriage house, and other long abandoned structures. The National Park Service offers an audio commentary via cell phone - signs posted around this area give information on how to access it.
If you continue east, the sounds of the seashore begin to lure you in. The ground becomes sandy and the wild dunes create a whole new landscape of their own.
Remember to keep your eyes open for a wild horse sighting. They are often tucked in the surrounding greenery.
How does one describe the natural untouched coast line that embraces the east coast of Cumberland Island? Not maintained for beauty or crowds of beach goers yet it carries an air of purity that draws you to explore and see more. Many whole clam shells, remains of horseshoe crabs, and chunks of drift wood line the water break line not far from the dunes. You may even stumble upon the occasional treasure or oddity among the washed up sea vegetation. My favorite ‘find’ was an extremely large yellow buoy that is embedded in the sand and now serves as a play ground for kids and families who think to wander that far down the beach.
After what felt like miles of walking the beach, we found the Sea Camp Trail that would take us westward - back to where we began our adventure. A long boardwalk lead us through groves of amazing oaks trees that seemed to spread and reach in all directions. Continuing along the trail, we meandered through thick palmetto groves and more ancient oaks. Back at the Ranger Camp and exhausted from putting over 16K steps on my feet, we loaded back into our boat to begin the ride back to the boat dock.
With over 50 miles of roads and trails on Cumberland Island, we were left with a lot that we had not yet explored. Next visit, we hope to include a meal at the Greyson Inn - a former home to one of the Carnegie children now converted into an inn and restaurant; located at on the northern portion of the island. Also, since biking is allowed - which would assist you in seeing more in the same amount of time - we will be utilizing that form of transportation. Stay tuned!
